Home >  Term: refraction
refraction

The process by which the direction of a wave is changed when moving into shallow water at an angle to the bathymetric contours. The crest of the wave advancing in shallower water moves more slowly than the crest still advancing in deeper water, causing the wave crest to bend toward alignment with the underwater contours.

0 0

Penulis

  • Lucrezia
  •  (Gold) 3125 poin
  • 100% positive feedback
© 2024 CSOFT International, Ltd.